Helpful Hints, Tips & References

We're in the process of compiling some of the most useful things we know about working with rhinestones, beads and lead crystal products. If you have anything you'd like to share we'd be happy to consider adding it to our list.

Size Conversions

Rhinestone Sizes

How can I clean my tiara?

Over time, a build up of hairspray, fingerprints, gel, dust and other greeblies can dull the sparkle of rhinestone tiaras. If using professional cleaning services is not an option, you can remove a lot of the surface grime yourself, but you must be very careful. The following method is only suitable for tiaras where the stones have been "claw set" (not glued in) and if you have any doubts whatsoever, please consult a professional jeweler or the like. Carefully inspect the tiara to make sure all the stones are secure with the claws firmly in place. Then, using a small amount of mild toothpaste on a very soft toothbrush, a small amount of lukewarm water and a very gentle circular motion, work quickly but carefully over the face of all the stones. Rinse quickly but gently with lukewarm water, immediately pat away all obvious moisture with a soft absorbent cloth or tissue, then leave to dry thoroughly in an airy place. Note - Prolonged exposure to water or dampness can affect the foiling on the back of the stones and rough scrubbing can loosen or even dislodge stones.

Swarovski Beads & Pendants Colour Chart 2009

Swarovski Flatbacks Colour Chart October 2009

Swarovski Crystal Pearl Colour Chart 2009

Hints about gluing rhinestones (that are not hotfix) on to porous surfaces (eg; fabric)

The two basic rules are ‘use a suitable glue' and ‘get your technique right'. As with any new activity, even gluing requires practice. When gluing rhinestones for the first time, we recommend doing a test-run first.

Only glue stones onto surfaces where there will be sufficient contact area. Common sense prevails...a 5mm stone needs more than one thread in a knit fabric like net to attach to.

Choose your glue carefully. Some glues (containing acetone, acetic acid, dimethylketone, 2-propanone, silicones) affect the backing of the rhinestones, which is a layer applied to the actual lead crystal part of the rhinestone, giving it the mirror reflective effect. These glues shrink when dry, and shrink the backing along with it, causing the backing to flake off the stone and the stone fall off the garment. Use a glue that the producer recommends for the given purpose. For gluing onto fabric surfaces and porous surfaces, we recommend Gemtac adhesive.

Prepare yourself for the project. Make sure your surface is clean, de-greased and free from surface moisture. A general soft detergent should be sufficient to clean any surface which might be greasy. Pour your rhinestones out onto a small plate, and if necessary, blue-tac the plate down so you don't knock it and send the stones flying across the dining room floor.

Step one: Lay your surface out that you want to attach the stones to. If it is fabric, lay it out as flat as possible. If it is a garment, stuff a pillow inside it to plump the fabric out so it is a flat surface to work on. Use a protective layer between the fabric and whatever lays beneath it, so as to stop the glue from seeping out the other side onto your favourite table top, the lounge carpet, or your pillow! Be ready to move the protective layer after a time, to avoid having this permanently glued to your garment/fabric as well as the stones. We use newspaper or an old, thick sheet, plastic sheeting, anything that will stop the glue from seeping onto what you don't want to seep onto, and anything you don't mind getting glue dots all over.

Step Two: There are a few tried and true methods to actually getting the stones in the right place. First of all, try to handle the stones as little as possible with your hands, as this avoids any excess of natural skin oils from building up on the stone's backing, which can affect how well the stones stay on once affixed. We use a blob of blu-tac molded around the end of a pencil to maneouvre the stones. It is tacky enough to pick a stone up, and not so sticky that it won't let it go again. What you will be doing is picking each stone up and placing it in the dot of glue that you will be putting on your fabric. Some people use tweezers to do this, but we like the blu-tac on the pencil as it can be shaped to a fine point that is still sticky enough to pick up the stones with and the point will be able to stay out of the way of the glue therefore. For really tiny stones (ss6 and ss8) some people use the end of dry pasta stick such as spaghetti, and lick it to make it a little sticky.

Step Three: Dot your glue onto the fabric, in the places you want your stones to be affixed. Dot up to 5 at a time once you get the hang of gluing stones (don't do too many at a time or your glue will dry out too much before you get the stones on). Place just enough glue on the fabric to completely capture the edges of the stone when it is pressed down, without having it ooze all over the fabric. You want to create a little nest of glue for the stone to sit in...but not so much that the stone swims in the glue and you don't really get the stone's effect. You want to capture the lower edges of the stone and not just a spot on the silver backing, as the backing may not be strong enough to support the weight of the stone and you may end up with the backing separating from the stone.

Step Four: Allow your glue and stones to dry in place, unhindered for 24 hours, or for however long the manufacturer's instructions say to leave the glue. The only time you would need to touch the fabric or garment ould be to move the layer you have used to protect whatever was underneath.

Once you have followed all these steps you should proceed with confidence, and know that your technique will improve each time.

Definitions of Matte, Translucent, Opaque & Transparent

Matte: not glossy or shiny, dull surface qualities

Translucent: semi-transparent, so can see through it a little

Opaque: can't see through it at all

Transparent: can see through it easily

What is sterling silver, base metal, silver plating and surgical steel?

Pure silver is too soft so to make sterling silver it is alloyed with copper, usually, in proportions of 92.5% silver, and 7.5% copper for strength. Hence the industry standard of stamping sterling silver as ".925" where possible.

Silver plating refers to a metal being applied to a conductive surface, in most case, silver applied to base metal.

Base metal is a catch-all term in the jewelry industry for metals used in costume jewelry. In metal working, base metal is any metal that is not one the noble or precious metals. The term precious metals usually means platinum, gold or silver. Examples of base metals include iron, steel (an alloy of iron and other metals), copper, brass (an alloy of copper and other metals), nickel, lead and tin.

Surgical stainless steel is a type of stainless steel, which is usually used in medical applications, hence the term 'surgical'. It is easily cleaned and sterilised, scratch-resistant and corrosion resistant.